Greek Island Hopping – The Cyclades – Koufonisia

Erm…I will be honest with you from the start. I really didn’t want to write this article. This place is ‘my’ secret. I have only told a few people about this special island. So, the more this postage stamp sized paradise gets written about, the more exposure it receives, the easier it becomes to visit and the more it changes. I hope what you read below puts you off from planning a visit*. (*😉)

Take a boat in the direction south east of the island of Naxos and you will find, what are known as, the Lesser Cyclades or Small Cyclades; a group of tiny islands within the Cyclades archipelago comprised of Donousa, Irakleia, Schoinoussa and Koufonisia. With a resident population of approximately 400 people and an area that covers 5.8 km² (2 sq mi) Pano Koufonisi or Koufonisi is the only inhabited island in the chain that makes up Koufonisia. The others being the nearby Kato (Lower) Koufonisi and Keros.

Best for?
Koufonisi isn’t known as ‘the Caribbean of the Aegean’ for nothing. Packed with several beautiful, gently shelving sandy beaches and turquoise waters that merge into a rich royal blue colour the further you look from the shore, Koufonisi is a beach-lovers paradise. The island attracts visitors who seek peace and tranquility, away from the its noisier neighbours – Mykonos and Santorini. It is largely Greeks that make up most of the visitors during the tourist season, but as the island has become more well known, it now welcomes a growing number of travellers from other European countries and the US. But, don’t let that put you off! I have been lucky enough to visit Koufonisi three times (in the high season) and rarely hear a single English accent the whole time I have been there. The tranquility that Koufonisi offers means that getting to the island does require a little effort. The island does not have an airport and, as a result, most people arriving onto Koufonisi arrive by one of the ferries or catamarans that frequent the island. There are several sailing options, especially during the high season, with boats coming and going from Athens and the neighbouring islands of Naxos and Paros, as well as both Mykonos and Santorini; where many visitors will arrive by plane.

Sights and Activities
Chora
As Koufonisi is such a small island, its only settlement is Chora. Located a short walk from where the ferries arrive, your introduction to this small fishing village begins with its star attraction; the incredible Ammos Beach. And, get this…despite the soft, golden sands lapped by the clear Aegean Sea, Ammos Beach is not even the best beach on this tiny island. It’s not even the second or third best, but is still an absolutely beautiful place to enjoy the sea and spend the day lounging in the sun. Like most of the beaches on Koufonisi, natural shade, particularly from trees, can be difficult to find; so it is worth investing in a parasol or beach awning to protect yourself from the sun.

Head inland up the small road, behind the beach, towards the buildings and you will pass a few cafes, the bakery, a restaurant, the supermarket and a couple of relatively upmarket boutiques selling floaty summer dresses, leather sandals and oversized straw beach bags. Make a left at this junction and you are at the island’s ‘main street’ – a quaint winding path that eventually takes you to the west of the island. Narrowing as you pass an interesting display of items of historical interest from the island and the blue domed church, you enter a part of Chora lined with bars, restaurants and shops that come to life at night, when the temperatures cool and the visitors and locals pour out onto the packed paths to enjoy a relaxing evening with their food, drinks and some good company. Watched over by the ever-present yiayias (grandmothers), who sit outside their doors and on their bougainvillea covered verandas. Koufonisi’s main town has a hubbub about it that is friendly, warm and very welcoming.

Away from the ‘main street’ and overlooking the Aegean Sea are two fantastic places for drinks (as well as food). Mylos Koufonisi, easily recognisable thanks to its distinctive windmill, is a bar, restaurant and shop all rolled into one. Perched up on the hillside, it affords a great view over to the uninhabited island of Keros; an historically significant place famed for its ancient Cycladic civilisation and associated white marble statues that have inspired the artists Pablo Picasso and Henry Moore. A great spot for breakfast, a cocktail and to check out the ladies fashions, accessories and beauty products on sale in the converted mill building.

A short walk from Ammos Beach, is the magical Bar Sorokos. During the day, you can laze on the bar’s terrace, watching the world go by as you sip on an iced frappe and eat some of their delicious pancakes. But, by night, Sorokos provides a simple, yet utterly amazing candlelit spot to sit by the sea as it laps against the shore. Music drifts from the bar and all you need to complete the scene is a glass of Prosecco and the moon and stars. Perfection!

The Beaches
The beaches on Koufonisi are, put simply, just incredible. I would go so far as saying that they are some of the best I have visited in Greece. Walk east from Ammos Beach, following the coast, takes you to the other four main beaches on the island; all of which are stunning spots to laze on the sand and swim in the clear waters with the ancient isle of Keros looking over from its position across the waters of the Aegean. The first beach you will reach is Charokopou Beach (more commonly known as Finikas – named after the restaurant located behind the golden sands). Follow the coastal trail and you will pass Fanos, Platia Pounda (aka Italida) and the spectacular expanse of Pori Beach. Just before you reach Pori, you will encounter a natural swimming pool (often referred to as ‘The Devil’s Eye’ or pisina). This is a fantastic spot to jump into the deep pool and swim in the sublime waters around the rocks that jut out along the coast. If you don’t fancy the beaches or seek a quieter spot away from the high season crowds, you can find plenty of space (and shade) in the rocky caves that dot the coastline along the way to Pori Beach. All of these beaches are easily reached by foot, boat, by bike or you can choose to take the bus that runs up and down the coast on a regular basis.

Accommodation

Accommodation on Koufonisi is of a good quality consisting mostly of simple pensions and apartments with the odd luxury hotel and villa dotted here and there. These are largely found in Chora or a short walk away from the town. The more luxurious villas located closer to the eastern end of the island, towards Pori Beach. It is clear that accommodation on Koufonisi is, in terms of quality, steadily moving towards the standards that you find on the islands of Mykonos and Santorini…with prices to match.

Although accommodation is relatively easy to find in the low and mid seasons, you must book well in advance in July and August to ensure your pick of the places on offer and at a price that is affordable. If you find nothing available during this two months I would recommend you contact accommodation owners directly as they may have or know of accommodation availability on the island that is not advertised on more traditional platforms.

Food

For a small island, the main settlement of Chora has a generous choice of places for you to eat; from the Greek taverna serving moussaka and grilled food (Melissa is a great choice). For Greek gastronomy, Mikres Cyclades is the place to go. For Italian fare, Tzet, set high up, overlooking the port provides tasty pizzas and pasta dishes in a stylish setting. Guacamole, the self-styled ‘burgers and cocktails’ place is a wonderful restaurant offering hot dogs alongside a variety of delicious burgers – including a pulled mushroom burger in a BBQ sauce. My favourite place to eat, however, is the cheapest. Sti Strofi Souvlaki – a small window, with an extensive grill menu, that is found close to the church sells some of the best souvlaki in Greece for just under €3. If you only eat at one place on Koufonisi – this is it!

After all this delicious food, I recommend some ice cream from Phystíki. Well worth checking out for inventive and creamy flavours.

Outside of Chora

As you head east towards the beaches away from Chora, you will pass by the Hondros Kavos taverna, serving traditional Greek dishes in a lovely alfresco setting overlooking the Aegean. A short walk from here is, what is known locally as, Finikas Beach – home to the restaurant of the same name. At the Finikas Restaurant you can wolf down a filling lunch of four cheese tiropita, Greek salad and aubergine papoutsaki (μελιτζάνα παπουτσάκι) as the bright turquoise sea laps onto the beach next to you.

Check out Pulped Travel’s Beginner’s Guide to Island Hopping The Cyclades and the informative guides to help you choose the other islands of the Cyclades you will want to visit, including Mykonos, Santorini, Naxos, Paros and Amorgos.

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