Greek Island Hopping – The Cyclades – Paros

Paros represents everything great about the Cyclades in one place.  With the typical narrow whitewashed streets found throughout these Greek Islands, breathtaking scenery and natural beauty to match Santorini, beautiful golden beaches that are on a par with the neighbouring Naxos and a touch of the glamour you find in Mykonos; Paros really is the Cyclades ‘all-rounder’.

Best For?
With something for everyone, Paros appeals to a large cross section of visitors; from honeymooning couples and families searching for a leisurely beach break in this peaceful haven to the rich and famous looking for a place to drop anchor and dock their yachts.  Despite a growing and relatively sophisticated food and lively drinks scene; especially in Naousa, the island retains a relaxed, yet bustling atmosphere, escaping the frenzy the crowds bring to Mykonos and Santorini.  The island, much like many of the others in the Cyclades, has escaped the influx of European travellers in the volume that islands such as Corfu, Crete and Rhodes have and means that most people arrive via the port of Parikia.  Ferries and highspeed catamarans run frequently in the high season to the island from Athens and to the other islands in the Cyclades; making it easy to reach Paros via a flight to the capital, as well as Mykonos or Santorini.  There is an airport on the island, but it mostly serves domestic destinations, namely Athens and Thessaloniki via Olympic Air and Sky Express.

Sights and Activities
Parikia
The main port of Parikia, nestled in a large bay, provides an excellent base from which to explore Paros as well as having its own diversions that includes historical ruins, cobbled streets lined with whitewashed houses; perfect for wandering around day and night, and a number of gently shelving sandy beaches for those lazy days by the sea. The beaches of Livadia and Martselo are particular standouts, the latter of which many locals regard as one of the best on the island.

The town itself is blessed with a small castle/fort, a monastery and a great Greek tradition – an open-air cinema – The CineRex; which during the summer months screens, along with Greek films, films in English with Greek subtitles.

Naousa
The other main coastal settlement on Paros is the island’s glamourpuss; with chic bars and restaurants as well as an array of high end independent stores selling locally crafted jewellery and fashion by Greek designers.  The vibe here is ‘Mykonos-Lite’ with many of the delights of its Cycladic sister, but without the high costs or hassle that comes from visiting Paros’s phenomenally popular Aegean neighbour.  Naousa comes into its own at night, where grabbing a drink whilst watching the magnificent sunset is a must-do pre-dinner activity, after which the night is yours to wander through the busy streets admiring the effortless beauty of this Greek gem.

Lefkes
The mountain village of Lefkes, located in the heart of Paros, is a traditional farming village originally settled so high to protect itself from pirates.  Nowadays, the invasions come in the form of tourists keen to spend a few hours exploring the winding streets of this pretty village filled with bougainvillea and passion fruit flowers.  With cars banned from the main part of Lefkes, a walk down the main street will take you past neoclassical buildings on a path towards the imposing Byzantine white marble Church of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) which is perched on high, overlooking the village.  Lefkes is truly a marvelous place with an authentic charm about it yet it remains largely uncrowded, even at the height of the tourist season.

Antiparos
If you are feeling adventurous, you can hop on a very short ferry ride from the port of Pounda (on the west of Paros) to the island of Antiparos.  Rumoured to be the summer haunts of Hollywood A-Listers, such as Tom Hanks (who owns a house on the island) and billionaire Greek shipping magnates in need of a rest from their tankers and shipping empires.  Once you set foot on the island, it is not surprising to see why Antiparos has attracted the rich and famous to this beautiful paradise isle.  Despite its size, the island and its main town has plenty to offer…even if your budget is somewhat less than that of a Goulandris or Niarchos. With great restaurants and bars, apartments and studios, a well-regarded campsite and even a popular nudist beach, Antiparos caters to everyone.  Away from the island’s main town, venture along Antiparos’s east coast and you will find several quiet sandy coves and beaches to rest, swim and, perhaps, lunch on a picnic of tiropita and fresh fruit.

The Beaches
These are what I love the most about Paros.  My particular favourites, from an impressive bunch that includes Molos Bay, nearby Kalogeri and Golden Beach (aka Chrissi Akti), are Santa Maria, Faragas and Piso Livadi.  The best (and easiest) way to enjoy these beaches is by hiring a quad bike or car to maximise your beach hopping on Paros.

 

Santa Maria – a short drive from Naousa, offers a long stretch of golden sand leading to the kind of water you expect to find in Greece – crystal clear and, as the sun reflects off its surface, every shade of blue and turquoise imaginable.

Faragas – with blissful house music playing out from the beachside restaurant, Faragas offers a little taste of Ibiza on this relatively quaint island; complete with gorgeous and beautiful people relaxing on the sun loungers sipping gorgeous and beautiful cocktails and (the almost obligatory) frappes in between the occasional dip into the cooling waters of Paros’s southern Aegean.  Me?  I prefer to simply lay my towel nearby and look out to the sea where I can daydream about which yacht I will buy when I win the jackpot on the Lottery!

Piso Livadi – where dozing under the shade provided by the tamarisk trees, at the back of the beach, as the cicadas chirrup loudly above is pure unadulterated bliss.  Interspersed with a regular dips into the clear waters of this harbour beach and you have the makings of a wonderful few hours.  A two minute walk from the beach is a small chapel, perched high over the cliffs.

Follow the steps, adjacent to the chapel, down to the sea for a swim in this…

Accommodation
Accommodation on the island of Paros is spread across a wide range of tastes and budgets, from simple rooms (studios/pensions) to luxurious Cycladic style villas and boutique hotels offering rooms with their very own private Jacuzzi.  As the choice is so varied, I have narrowed it down to a select few I would recommend.

Parikia
The Angelina Studios are great place to stay in Parikia.  Run by two friendly travel-loving Italians, Diego and Elisa, the Angelina has been renovated to create stylish and comfortable rooms that are within easy reach of Parikia and nearby Livardia Beach.  Both Diego and Elisa are also a great resource for the best places to eat and visit.  Also look out for Diego’s ‘Top Ten Paros Beach’ recommendations on the garden wall when you are there!

Naousa
In Naousa, I suggest a stay close to Agii Anargyri Beach where you will find a host of excellent accommodation options that includes the new upmarket boutique Angels Pillow and Sandaya Luxury Suites.  My choices would be a stay at the charming Archipelagos Studios (hosted by the utterly fabulous travel fan Chrissi) or the nearby family-run Roussos Hotel.  Both offer excellent rooms with the Archipelagos offering a spacious apartment that includes a kitchen and the Roussos beautiful rooms (some of which overlook the beach) and one of the best breakfasts I have ever had in the whole of the Cyclades!  Trust me…it is just perfect!  In addition to this, being a family affair, The Roussos Hotel, with the lovely Konstantina (another keen traveller) at the helm, goes to great lengths to ensure your stay in Naousa is really enjoyable.

Food
The food on the island of Paros is some of the best you will find in the whole of Greece.  With an emphasis on fresh ingredients and traditional recipes, the Parians are keen to serve you superb food as part of a quality dining experience from the smallest tavernas and gyros emporiums to the high-end, high-cost establishments offering multi-course taste extravaganzas!  Below is a selection of places, I think are worth a visit when you are on Paros.

Parikia
The bakery (or foúrnos – φούρνος) is a mainstay of Greek life; where people pick up bread, pastries and their Nescafe frappes. Tserki, located on the main road away from the port is a top notch patisserie with some very tempting Greek specialties and desserts on offer.  For gyros that will melt in your mouth, you have too head to Brizoladiko a short walk down the street from the port.  The fact that this place is heaving with (many stuffed and satisfied) customers every single night tells you everything you need to know about this Brizoladiko.  And, for a dose of good, wholesome Greek food, You have to venture to the Katerina Taverna near to the Hotel Argo.  Whatever you order…make sure you ask for the toasted bread they smother in olive oil and herbs.

Naousa
The Ragoussis Bakery (near the footbridge) is the go to bakery in town!  As soon as you walk in you will see more varieties of bread, pastry, biscuit and dessert than you can possibly imagine!  And, the coffee is good too!  For gyros and all things grilled, The Meat Bar, located in the maze of streets provides hearty portions of gyros and good beers for you to enjoy as you watch the world go by from one of their balconies or their tables outside.  The very popular Pizzarella is the go to place for Italian food in Naousa.  Pizzarella use traditional methods, including the use of a brick oven to provide some of the best tasting slices of Italy on the island.  For Greek dishes, Kafeneio Palia Agora and Romantica Restaurant are the places to be.  Kafeneio Palia Agora can get quite busy, but be patient and you will be treated to Greek food almost as good as yia yia (grandma) used to make!  Barbarossa with its iconic set up of white wooden tables and chairs laid out adjacent to a pretty blue-domed whitewashed church is THE place to dine in Naousa if you want the view and, what I am told, is excellent seafood.  Keep your eyes peeled for the rich and famous wolfing down the octopus that was hanging out in the sun, earlier the same day, at this place.  And, if you still have room, the best ice cream can be found at Nonna Crema.  Rich and creamy with a host of amazing flavours, it is a great place to round off an evening of taste sensations in Naousa!

Antiparos
Vicky’s ice cream in the main town of Antiparos is probably worth the ferry journey alone!  With over 50 flavours to choose from you are spoilt for choice.  Prices are reasonable and they taste fantastic!

Check out Pulped Travel’s Beginner’s Guide to Island Hopping The Cyclades and the informative guides to help you choose the other islands of the Cyclades you will want to visit, including Mykonos, Santorini, Naxos, Amorgos and Koufonisia.

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